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Ch Duhart-Milon is most definitely entering a new era under the direction of Saskia de Rothschild. Her affection for this property is undeniable. Smiling, she says it is “The Easy Rider”: all the swagger of a Harley Davidson biker, but with a tender heart, perfectly defined with unwavering loyalty. There can be no better ambassador for the appellation of Pauillac. With 80% Cabernet Sauvignon in the final blend, it shows a controlled density but in a very relaxed style. Cigar box and wild bramble fruits, the tannins provide a strong core, ahead of the finish of sweet dark fruits. Long lasting, memorable and very Pauillac.
The 2023 Duhart-Milon was picked September 7 to October 3 and contains 15% pressed wine, matured in 50% new oak. It has a much more backward bouquet than the Moulin, displaying well-defined yet tightly coiled graphite-infused black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins that belie the backbone of this Pauillac. That graphite element is accentuated in the mouth and controls the classic finish that could only come from this appellation. This is excellent, but patience is required. Drink 2030-2060.
The 2023 Duhart-Milon is seriously impressive. Dark, virile and brooding in its intensity, the 2023 screams with Cabernet Sauvignon character. Plum, blackberry, incense, leather, grilled herbs and licorice lend notable textural resonance and pure power. There's a good bit of tannin, so patience is a must. A virile, authoritative wine, Duhart-Milon is hugely promising in this edition. The blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. Drink 2031-2043.
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon (picked late, between September 25 and October 3) and 20% Merlot, the 2023 Duhart-Milon has turned out beautifully, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, cherries and dark berries mingled with hints of mint, cedar and spice box. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with an ample core of cool but ripe fruit, sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish.
So much pure graphite and lead pencil here, together with blackcurrant and iodine aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied with creamy and velvety tannins that are very polished. Cedar and some tobacco box. Deep and layered. Al-dente tannins. Precise.
While this was a warm vintage at times, with the highest ever recorded June temperatures, there is superb freshness found here, too. The compact palate seems somewhat reluctant to express itself fully at this early stage, and the finish is tense and adroit, but the core is dense and generously black-fruited. Nice and chunky, with an eagerness that doesn’t quite have enough finesse at this stage to really wow me, this is a sturdy, classically dimensioned creation that will blossom a good eight to ten years down the track.
Ch Duhart-Milon is most definitely entering a new era under the direction of Saskia de Rothschild. Her affection for this property is undeniable. Smiling, she says it is “The Easy Rider”: all the swagger of a Harley Davidson biker, but with a tender heart, perfectly defined with unwavering loyalty. There can be no better ambassador for the appellation of Pauillac. With 80% Cabernet Sauvignon in the final blend, it shows a controlled density but in a very relaxed style. Cigar box and wild bramble fruits, the tannins provide a strong core, ahead of the finish of sweet dark fruits. Long lasting, memorable and very Pauillac.
Inky plum, far deeper in texture and intensity than the Moulin de Duhart (in contrast to 2022, when both 1st and 2nd wines were intensely coloured). Classical Duhart on the attack, reserved and a little subdued, then in comes the waves of cassis, liqourice root, spiced plum, ink, tobacco and cigar box. High Cabernet in the blend, and it suits the style and character of Duhart. Has a ton of ageing potential, classical styled with precision, fully showcasing the enjoyment of 2023 in the right spots.
Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Duhart-Milon pops from the glass with notes of wild blueberries, black cherries, and fresh mulberries giving way to underlying hints of cardamom, licorice, and charcoal. The medium-bodied palate is chock full of bright, black fruits with fine-grained tannins and lovely, well-knit freshness, finishing with a real skip in its step. The blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, with an alcohol of 13.1%. "We've been restructuring the vineyard for the past 8 years, with a little bit more Cabernet Sauvignon, although we also have good terroir for Merlot," says Saskia de Rothschild. "The planting density is lower - down to 7,000 vines per hectare."
Due south of St Estèphe lies the appellation of Pauillac, the king of Left Bank communes. It is home to three first growths as well as a plethora of other classified growths. Pauillac's renowned well-draining, gravelly soils enable its dominant grape Cabernet Sauvignon to reach fantastic heights of complexity and concentration. As a result, Pauilac's wines tend to be full-bodied with compact tannins and good freshness. Its aromatics are often what one associates with classic Bordeaux: pencil shavings, black currant and occasional mint. Some of the most famous châteaux of the commune are Latour, Mouton Rothschild, Lafite Rothschild, Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande and Lynch Bages.
