BURGUNDY 2020 VINTAGE REPORT

In 2020 the white wines really have excelled. I loved Didier Séguier’s commen at William Fèvre in Chablis: “2020? Yes, a little bit of magic.” This really couldn’t be more apt.

Bruno Colin in Chassagne Montrachet commented on the richness of fruit, similar to 2019, but with greater brightness and freshness, which Benoît Droin likened to the 2017 vintage. It is this superb level of acidity that provides backbone and intensity in the wines. Jean-Philippe Fichet explained that this is characteristic of a dry year, with concentrated berries contributing an enduring acidity that persists in the final wine.

They have a delicious intensity and, whilst ripe, the fruit flavours tend to be more white fruits and floral notes, and less exotic. Although the yields were healthy, there is excellent concentration, and the vitality and freshness provide both balance and excitement. It really is difficult to find fault in these lovely wines.

Pinot Noir is a little more sensitive to heat and drought so, whilst the red vineyards enjoyed the same wonderful sanitary conditions, some areas did feel the effects of the drought a little more than the sturdier Chardonnay grapes. In particular this has impacted the yields and volumes are significantly down on 2019. A consistent comment, echoed by Cyril Audoin in Marsannay, was that they had wonderful bunches with plenty of berries and, although they were small, everyone was really surprised by how little juice there was inside them.

As with the whites the harvest was early, but it varied so much domaine by domaine. Many growers picked in August, such as Domaines Barthod and Boillot, where they like to pick early to keep freshness and purity in their wines and lower alcohol levels closer to 13%. Other equally impressive estates such as Domaine Grivot preferred to wait and didn’t start until 3rd September (still an early year!).

Tasting the reds, it is obvious the fruit came into the wineries in wonderful condition. The common theme from all our red wine growers was to practice slower cooler fermentations in 2020: minimal maceration, infusion rather than extraction, and sparing use of pigeage. The grapes already had a great density of colour, natural tannin levels were high, sugars and potential alcohol were spot on. As with the whites, they have superb acidity levels refreshing the palate. By following these practices and handling their fruit carefully, our producers have made stunning, high-quality wines.

The style of the vintage is relatively rich; the fruit flavours are deeper fruits of the forest characters than in cooler years. The best domaines have still achieved appellational personality and individuality. The red wines are intense, with a tannic core which will enable longevity. They also have a charm and brightness which will appeal to those Burgundy lovers who like to drink Pinot Noir young.