The red wines are pleasingly low in alcohol, with levels closer to 13%. They are not powerhouses, but are more subtle in their intensity, while retaining characteristic depth. They are poised and precise, offering an inherent charm. Careful tannin management is one of the secrets to success in 2024; the tannins sit quietly alongside the fruit and alcohol, rather than taking a leading role. Nicolas Glumineau at Pichon Lalande and de Pez in St Estèphe described the reds as having controlled density rather than power. They have a Burgundian purity, with a flowing nature, subtle concentration and rewarding freshness.

2024 is not a stand-alone red vintage: the white wines have vigour and energy, combining the joyous volume of Sémillon with a fine Sauvignon verve. The trilogy is excitingly completed with some beautiful sweet wines in Sauternes and Barsac, thanks to fast and plentiful noble rot in October, after all the dry wines had been safely gathered.

The fashion is to pigeonhole vintages as either a Right Bank or Left Bank year; 2024 is just not one of those years. This is a year where challenges were set in the vineyard right from the start. Tasting these wines from barrel, the Right Bank estates with their earlier picked, plusher Merlots in the blend, arguably showed their colours a little more readily than the later harvested Cabernets, which in some cases were more reserved. In the long term, which is what great Bordeaux is all about, this early restraint is not a concern for those wines with backbone and ageing potential. We come back to the simple fact: it didn’t matter whether you were in Pessac-Léognan or Médoc, St Emilion or Pomerol, if you were in the best location, had sufficient resources to cope with the seasonal variations and, crucially, made the right decisions as each challenge arrived, fine quality was achieved.

The 2024 Bordeaux En Primeur Campaign is likely to be fast and furious and may even be over by the end of May.

Ch Lafite Rothschild is seizing the initiative with an announced release date of 29th April and a promise of a significant price reduction on last year. Such clear and decisive action is welcomed by us all. The market is extremely fragile, and it is imperative that châteaux offer a true benefit to the early En Primeur buyer this year.

Price indications are always difficult. To be clear, a Fifth Growth estate has less margin to move compared to the First and Second Growths. Our price spreads may seem wide as a result. At the more affordable end of the market, a 10% decrease on last year would seem reasonable. However, at the other end of the spectrum, some of the most resolute estates could even go as far as 30% to make 2024 the cheapest En Primeur vintage in recent times. We certainly hope so.

In addition, our release policy is very clear. We will be offering a smaller range of wines than in some years. Our selection is based absolutely on taste and our favourites within each appellation. If, however, on release date the wine doesn’t reach our value for money credentials, don’t be surprised if we don’t send an offer. Our intention is not to send a continuous barrage of emails and releases. We want you to have confidence in our selection and our selection alone. We act as a traditional merchant, looking after your needs and desire for a perfect cellar.

I conclude, with the words of Nicolas Glumineau of Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande: “Don’t let anybody tell you what this wine is or isn’t; let it speak for itself. Just like the 1988 and 1998, vintages which revealed their true value in the fullness of time.”