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High above the town, Troplong Mondot has always had a superior air. For many years it has produced marvellous St Emilion in a relatively modern style. The 2003, 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, is super-ripe, complex and powerful. One of the best St Emilions of the vintage.
High above the town, Troplong Mondot has always had a superior air. For many years it has produced marvellous St Emilion in a relatively modern style. The 2003, 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, is super-ripe, complex and powerful. One of the best St Emilions of the vintage.
Troplong Mondot’s 2003 is a brilliant success in this vintage, largely because of the limestone soils and incredibly low yields. There are nearly 70 acres of vines in production, yields were tiny, and the harvest was early. Nevertheless, there is an opulence and youthfulness in this wine that suggest it has at least a decade of life left. A luxurious effort with high glycerin, loads of blueberry, mulberry, black currant, licorice and charcoal ember-like notes, full body, low acidity and sweet tannin, this beauty is close to full maturity and can be drunk now as well as over the next decade.
This superb estate, run with impeccable attention to detail by Christine Valette, has produced a formidable, backward wine that will require considerable cellaring. When St.-Emilion's newclassification is announced in several months, it will be a crime if Troplong is not promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classe status. Even by Bordeaux standards this is a weighty vin du garde, with huge density, a backward, masculine style, an inky dark ruby/purple hue, and subtle notions of white chocolate, espresso roast, plums, blackberries, and currants. Full-bodied, powerful, and “closed for business” at present, it exhibits beautiful purity, stunning depth, and a long, persistent finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025+.
Having exploded in quality, the 2003 is now much more massive, concentrated, and powerful than it was a year ago. Now one of the top right bank wines of the vintage, it exhibits a dense purple color as well as a bold, dramatic fragrance of melted chocolate, espresso roast, smoke, plums, blackberries, and black currants. Full-bodied and rich, with low acidity, high tannin, loads of glycerin, and massive, multilayered flavors, this brilliant effort (tasted on three separate occasions) reminded me of the prodigious 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022.
Just beginning to strut its stuff, this is an outstanding offering from proprietor Christine Valette. Deep ruby-colored with purple nuances, it displays an evolved, sweet nose of blackberries, currants, melted licorice, flowers, and earth. Medium-bodied, pure, and ripe, with low acidity, noticeable tannin, and a plump, fleshy finish, this seductive, round 2003 will be accessible early, and drink well for 12-15 years. While not as spectacular as the 2001, 2000, or 1998, it is a very successful effort. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020.
A solid wine, with lots of smoky, berry and meaty character. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a medium finish. Slightly hollow center palate but should develop nicely. 4,555 cases made. -- J.S.
The extra edge of finesse witnessed in the last couple of vintages continues in 2003. Elegant nose accented on the fruit. Palate full, fleshy and smooth textured with firm but fine tannins and long, fresh finish. A real touch of raciness in this wine. Drink 2012-2025.
South of Pomerol lies the medieval, perched village of St Emilion. Surrounding St Emilion are vines that produce round, rich and often hedonistic wines. Despite a myriad of soil types, two main ones dominate - the gravelly, limestone slopes that delve down to the valley from the plateau and the valley itself which is comprised of limestone, gravel, clay and sand. Despite St Emilion's popularity today, it was not until the 1980s to early 1990s that attention was brought to this region. Robert Parker, the famous wine critic, began reviewing their Merlot-dominated wines and giving them hefty scores. The rest is history as they say. Similar to the Médoc, there is a classification system in place which dates from 1955 and outlines several levels of quality. These include its regional appellation of St Emilion, St Emilion Grand Cru, St Emilion Grand Cru Classé and St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, which is further divided into "A" (Ausone and Cheval Blanc) and "B" (including Angélus, Canon, Figeac and a handful of others). To ensure better accuracy, the classification is redone every 10 years enabling certain châteaux to be upgraded or downgraded depending on on the quality of their more recent vintages.
