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A quick swoop down to the southeast led me to Domaine de Trevallon in Les Baux de Provence. Trevallon has long been an avant garde wine estate. Created by Eloi Durrbach in 1973 (1st vintage released was 1977), he deemed the terroir perfect for planting non-local varieties and began with Cabernet Sauvignon. Local appellation rules of Coteaux d’Aix en Provence did not allow such varieties and eventually he was forced to declassify his wine to Vin de Pays. It is one of the most powerful, concentrated and complex VdP that one will ever come across.
I tasted through two vintages of his delicious (and serious) white wine (made with equal amounts of Roussanne and Marsanne and an additional smattering of Chardonny) as well as 5 vintages of his red – from both cask and bottle. How impressive they were. He is known as having wines that are true vin de garde and built for the long haul. But some vintages, such as his 2000, are beginning to open up and this bottle in particular showed appealing aromatics of roasted meat, sweet leather and ripe, bold fruit that could still last for years to come. We are looking to offer their wines shortly, so watch this space!