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Describing this as the ‘winemakers’ vintage’ Tim Atkin MW produced a detailed, upbeat and, as ever, beautifully photographed report. Here it is at a glance
Three Things from Tim’s Ten things You Need to Know About the Vintage
1. 2012 is a very good to exceptional vintage for red wines and a good to very good one for whites.
2. It is one of the laws of economics that prices increase when demand exceeds supply and that is the case for the best 2012s.
3. This is a vintage to buy and, in some cases, tuck away for a few years.
A few comments about the wines
Domaime Hudelot-Noëllat, Clos de Vougeot GC (96)
This is always one of the most reliable of Clos de Vougeots, sourced from two contrasting parcels of more than 50 years old. It’s a very elegant style, all silky smooth tannins, aromatic red fruits, some cinnamon and cardamom and an elegantly lingering finish. If only all Clos de Vougeots were this good…
Drink 2018-28
Domaine Colin-Deleger, Puligny-Montrachet PC Demoiselles (95)
All three of the wines from this domaine are worth seeking out, but given that this is just over half the price of the Chevalier Montrachet, this is something of a bargain. As ever, the wine is poised, focused and stylishly oaked, with acidity driving the palate. Textured yet extremely fine, this is white winemaking of a high calibre.
Drink 2016-25
Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays GC (95)
This near monopole (Taupenot-Merme have a little bit too) is always distinctive, given the high percentage of whole bunches that Thierry Brouin uses in his top wine. The concentration is particularly marked this year, when crops were down 50%, making the wine denser and even sappier than normal. It’s a compact wine, made for the long haul.
Drink 2020-30
(that is Tim Atkin MW waving in the background at our Burgundy 2012 En Primeur Tasting)