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This is an outstanding wine, plump, viscous, full-bodied. La Mission's dense saturated purple color is followed by a ripe, expansive, chewy wine with moderately high, ripe, sweet tannin. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2025.
A stupendous effort, the 1998 La Mission-Haut-Brion has put on considerable weight. The high tannin level has become fully integrated with the rich, concentrated structure and style of this effort. This dense opaque purple-colored, powerful, tannic, muscular La Mission demands 7-8 years of cellaring. The wine exhibits plenty of mineral, spice box, and black fruit characteristics in its earthy, classic, Graves-like bouquet, admirable length, an intense mid-palate, and a powerful, concentrated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2025.
Complex aromas of scorched earth, minerals, black fruits, lead pencil, and subtle wood accompany this classic, full-bodied, La Mission. It boasts superb purity, an expansive, concentrated mid-palate, and sweet tannin in the long, muscular yet refined finish. This superb La Mission-Haut-Brion, which requires 6-7 years of cellaring, gets my nod as one of the finest La Mission's produced. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030.
Stretching from the rather unglamorous southern suburbs of Bordeaux, for 50 km along the left bank of the river Garonne, lies Graves. Named for its gravelly soil, a relic of Ice Age glaciers, this is the birthplace of claret, despatched from the Middle Ages onwards from the nearby quayside to England in vast quantities. It can feel as though Bordeaux is just about red wines, but some sensational white wines are produced in this area from a blend of sauvignon blanc, Semillon and, occasionally, muscadelle grapes, often fermented and aged in barrel. In particular, Domaine de Chevalier is renowned for its superbly complex whites, which continue to develop in bottle over decades. A premium appellation, Pessac-Leognan, was created in 1987 for the most prestigious terroirs within Graves. These are soils with exceptional drainage, made up of gravel terraces built up in layers over many millennia, and consequently thrive in mediocre vintages but are less likely to perform well in hotter years. These wines were appraised and graded in their own classification system in 1953 and updated in 1959, but, like the 1855 classification system, this should be regarded with caution and the wines must absolutely be assessed on their own current merits.
