At the end of last week we opened 130 barrel samples from the 2008 Burgundy vintage that our man Harry had very kindly collected in his van from each of our domaines throughout the Cote de Nuits and Cotes de Beaune.
2008 was saved from a very difficult growing season by a miracle September, it is a growers vintage where the quality is very good but you have to be selective and home in on your favourite grower. I thought the whites as a whole were fabulous. I tasted all the whites in the morning then had to stop for a breather and some lunch. Never have I been happier with a selection of white wines.
The reds I attacked once fortified with shepherd’s pie and many are a true taste sensation. The wines are mineral, they are pure and many have a top notch spiciness that makes them extremely exciting to taste (it’s a hard life).
Drouhin Laroze was the first port of call and they are a superb set of wines. Johnny and Robin our buyer came back from Burgundy saying that DL had excelled himself this year, therefore I had high hopes for these wines and I wasn’t let down. His style has changed this vintage to a purer and a more mineral driven set of wines, I think that the village Gevrey Chambertin is one of the best value wines this vintage (along with Fourriers, Morey Clos Solon). It is a highly rated vintage for the wines of Chambolle Musigny and this shines through in his village Chambolle. I have to make a quick mention to the Chambertin, Clos de Beze, if you want a grand Cru from here, it is fabulous.
Fourrier, is a grower that everyone wants to buy year in year out. He made a set of velvety red fruity wines that were delicious to taste. The Morey for £195 is excellent, the 1er Crus were ‘exotic’ and if I had to choose between them all (bar Clos St Jacques), the Gevrey 1er Cru Champeaux was my favourite.
Geantet Pansiot, again his wines are SO intense, yet light on their feet. The quality of the fruit is fabulous and this is a set of wines that I will sell this year and really enjoy doing so. Both the village Gevrey and Chambolle are brilliant, not as cheap as other village wines but the quality is undeniable. Whether I would buy the Chambolle from here or the Drouhin Laroze Chambolle, not an easy choice, you will have to call me to discuss. His Charmes Chambertin, was exceptional.
The other domaine that I think deserves a special mention from me is Clos de Lambrays. Thierry Brouhin’s village Morey St Denis rivals his excellent 2005. The wine is rich, earthy, pure and very very elegant. I thought it superb and we have it in Magnums, for the hedonist…the only other wine we bought from him was the Grand Vin, Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru. This was like drinking peppery, blackcurrant liquer, sweet and fleshy yet with a firm structure , in 10 years time this will be an awesome explosion for the senses.