The first email I got about this was from the organiser suggesting we gather for an evening of exceptional Burgundy. “Great”, I thought, “that’s something we can do.” The next email I received was from one of the participents. “DRC 1993 La Tache OK?” The stakes had been inexorably raised.
It was a fascinating night with a small group of Burgundy lovers in a private room at Otto e Mezzo, one of Hong Kong’s latest 3 star Michelin restaurants, where Chef Bombana cooks up a storm of Italy’s finest cuisine. As we all ordered different things from the menu I shall just focus on the wines:
Krug Collection 1989: This is now showing quite a bit of age but still bubbly and unmistakeably Krug. Golden in colour but plenty of minerality given the heat of the vintage. Its ripe, but elegant and lovely with life ahead. 18/20
Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru Colin-Deleger 2007: Had the mineral cut of a Leflaive or a Coche, took a while to open up but when it did it was lovely (about an hour after it was decanted – unusually my glass was not empty). Nicely resolved oak with lovely citrus and white flower notes. Clearly defined with precision and complexity of a top class Grand Cru in a great vintage. Pop this baby back in the cellar for 4 years. 18.5/20
Bienvenue Batard Montrachet Domaine Carillon 2005; Showed identically twice in the same week. Its has that openness that we have come to expect from some of the 2005 whites, from that warm year. Lacks a bit of acidity but the fruit is large scaled, powerful and hedonistic. A wine to enjoy now while as it still has plenty of mineral undertow which when wrapped up with plenty of complex yet ripe fruit makes for a great combination. 18/20
DRC La Tache 1993: We decided to start the reds with the oldest wine knowing that the 99 Tache would need as much air as possible. This was a lovely example of the beautiful 93, gorgeous sweet red fruits with plenty of underlying mineral structure and mildy tannic backbone. Long, complex, unmistakeably DRC and (this bottle) was absolutely ready to go. 19/20
Chambertin Grand Cru Armand Rousseau 1998; At first I was struck with how open and easy it seemed, almost, dare I say it, quite pretty, but as it evolved in the glass it just got more and more complex, and the mildly reddish fruit feel got darker and darker. Plenty of structure as you’d expect from a 1998, a seemingly much underrated vintage. Life ahead. Lovely, but still young. 18.5/20
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Cros Parantoux Meo Camuzet 1999: Tasted along side the La Tache. Like all really top 1999s this has plenty to offer to the lucky few who will get a crack at it over the next 20 years but for now, at age 13, it is a youthful, yet very classy, teenager. Lovely polished fruit, with so much complexity, balance, unmistakeably Grand Cru quality. Brilliant. 19/20
DRC La Tache 99; Without doubt for me the wine of the night. Simply brilliant. Unmistakeably DRC. Has everything, so much going on. Has the fruit, has the purity, has everything you could ask for. Complex. Really astonishing, but still a baby. 20/20
